Some days you wake...

 “Some days you wake and immediately start to worry. Nothing in particular is wrong, it's just the suspicion that forces are aligning quietly and there will be trouble.”

Jenny Holzer

*****

Glenstone is a museum smack dab in the middle of the DC suburbs; Potomac, to be exact. Potomac, if you’re not familiar with the DMV, is a very wealthy suburban community  - one of the wealthiest in the United States, in fact. Potomac is filled with magnificent houses set on beautifully landscaped multi-acre lots. Winding roads wend their way past golf courses and private swim clubs and private schools. Everything is nicer in Potomac - even the supermarkets and hardware stores and pharmacies are fancy and exclusive-looking. 

Before it became a museum, Glenstone was just one of Potomac’s many expansive private estates. And it still is - the owners, apparently, still live on the property. About 20 years ago, they turned acres of their land into a museum and nature preserve and outdoor sculpture gallery. They built galleries to display their enormous collection of modern and contemporary art, and they created trails and paths through the nature preserve. They added a few parking lots and a visitors’ center and bookstore, and indoor and outdoor cafes. Then they opened the whole thing to the public, absolutely free - free admission, free parking, free umbrellas to borrow for rainy days, free wheelchairs to borrow, free golf cart rides to and from the visitors’ center for those in need - the cafes and the bookstore are the only places that cost anything. I’m not a fan of billionaires and as a rule, I think they shouldn’t exist (as billionaires, that is - no objection to their existence as humans) but if you’re going to be a billionaire art collector, this is the way to do it. 

*****

We pulled into the parking lot at Glenstone just a few minutes ahead of our ticketed arrival time at 11 AM. Even the parking lot is pretty - shady and surrounded by trees, with interesting rocks as parking spot markers. From the parking lot, you walk to the Arrivals Hall, where a friendly staff person asks if you’ve been before. If not, they offer a helpful orientation and hand you a map and guide, and then you’re free to explore. 

From the Arrivals Hall, you walk a beautiful path through meadow-like landscaping. I’m not very good at recognizing plants and flowers, but there’s definitely a huge patch of heather. It feels like you’re walking through a heath or a moor in a 19th century English novel.  As you walk the path, you’ll see a big sycamore tree on your right, marked on the map as The Sycamore Tree. It’s an impressive tree, so maybe it merits that capitalized title. On the left, hills rise, and at the top of one hill, you can see Jeff Koons’ Split-Rocker, a giant sculpture of a creature’s head, which is covered with live vegetation that changes with the seasons. Split-Rocker is colorful in the summer, and green in the spring. Apparently, Glenstone has a guy whose main job is to oversee the replanting and irrigation necessary to keep Split-Rocker blooming in the spring and summer. He’s doing a good job. 

Glenstone has paths and trails. The paths are gentle, flat, winding little paved roads through the meadows. Paths take you to the Pavilions, where the temporary exhibits are displayed; and the Gallery, the more permanent collection; as well as the Cafe (indoors) and Patio (outdoor coffee shop). I visited with a friend who has health issues that make climbing and difficult walking all but impossible, so we kept to the paths. Next time, I’ll climb a few of the trails, including the one that takes you to the base of Split-Rocker, which is huge even from a distance.

*****

The Pavilions are a group of low, stark, gray buildings in the middle of the meadow. Well, it looks like a group of buildings from the outside but they’re all interconnected inside. I didn’t know most of the artists whose work is currently on view, except for Jenny Holzer (quoted above) and On Kawara and Cy Twombly. There’s a pretty large collection of Jenny Holzer’s word art and her huge enlargements of formerly classified documents about the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan, obtained via a FOIA request; and her electronic art. There are five Cy Twombly sculptures assembled from very old white-painted found objects. I’d have liked to see some of his paintings, too, but the sculptures were very cool. I can’t explain why. 

I was happy to discover some new-to-me artists, too; especially Jaune Quick-to-See Smith and Brice Marden and Robert Gober, whose single piece was a full-room installation with running sinks and walls covered with hand-painted forests with tiny prison-like windows at the top and stacks of newspapers here and there on the floor. It was strangely peaceful in that room. 

*****

When you’re at Glenstone, surrounded by wildflowers and verdant meadows and trees, it’s possible to forget where you really are - but not for long. Past the Sycamore Tree and the Pavilions, you can see the roofs of neighboring Potomac mansions. I’m sure that in the winter, even more of Potomac is visible from Glenstone’s grounds. Still, it’s a calm and beautiful place that feels set aside from the world. I plan to go back soon. I want to get a little closer to that giant flowering head.